Camp began to stir around 4am in the cold darkness of early morning. Some of us managed to catch a few zzzz’s, but nothing great. Most of our energy was fueled by anticipation and adrenaline at this point in the trip. The remaining distance to the summit was short—only 2 miles—but it would take us all day. In that final stretch, we would climb from 19,700 feet to 22,800 for a vertical gain of over 3,000 feet.
We were ready to roll by ten after five.
The pace was slow and steady—take a step, count to two, take a step, count to two. We stopped every half-mile to rest with our first break at 6:38am. Then it was back to—take a step, count to two.
Half-Way Point at Refugio Independencia
By 8:30, we reached today’s half-way point at the Refugio Independencia. The only picture I have of what’s left of this shelter is from our way down, later in the post. At nearly 21,000 feet, it took us over three hours to cover this first mile and ~1,300 feet of elevation. Even though I forgot to take a screen shot of my phone, I did get the stats off my watch at this rest stop. Not sure why I didn’t capture both.
With crampons lashed on, we were soon back on the trail—slow steps, deep breaths, warming temps, and the summit still somewhere ahead.
The summit came into sight as we crested the northwest ridge.
Another half mile, another short break. It was now almost 10:30, two hours after leaving the refugio.
As we neared La Cueva (“the cave”), I looked back at the Gran Acarreo Traverse we had just crossed.
We had managed only a quarter mile in an hour and forty-five minutes before a break at The Cave.
Final Summit Push
We pressed on after that hour-long break. Another hour later, barely a quarter mile further—talk about a grind. Right about here, one of our team members got turned around. I didn’t see the struggle but one of our guides did. He was concerned, and I could understand why. It was already 2pm and we still had at least another hour or more to go. We were running short on time with a long descent still ahead.
When signs of struggle are present, the concerns are always about making it down safely. We all know that summiting is only half of it—a successful day also means returning safe. A hired guide carries that responsibility. No one wants to risk someone tripping and falling from exhaustion on the descent, then having to manage an injury as daylight fades. This steep, icy section was definitely a no-fall zone.
I stayed focused on moving up La Canaleta, ever so slowly, now counting to three between steps with the summit RIGHT THERE!
After another hour and forty-eight minutes, we were on top of the tallest peak in the Americas. For that brief moment, we also believed ourselves to be the highest people on the planet, since few would dare climb the Himalayas at this time of year.
What a feat! We started just after 5 in the morning and stood on the summit at 4 in the afternoon.
Hard to believe it took almost 11 hours to cover just 2 miles–our guides were hoping we’d be closer to 9.
Speaking of guides. Our expedition was led by Ariel Perinetti, who, on February 18, 2025, reached this summit for the 60th time in his career. Being part of the climb that marked such a milestone for him made the day even more memorable. CONGRATULATIONS ARIEL!!
Our assistant guide, Nico Sotelo, reached his 17th Aconcagua summit on this 2025 expedition.
The stars had aligned for the most perfect of days!
Back to Camp 3
We didn’t linger long at the top since it was already late in the day. With a new rush of energy, it was time to go. The views of Filo del Guanaco and the south summit were awesome as we headed down. This high, exposed ridge between the north and south summits is what Karl Egloff called “demanding”.
Back across the Gran Acarreo.
The path was paved with ice and snow, packed down by a season of climbers.
We reached the half-way point at Refugio Independencia around 7pm.
You can see what’s left of that shelter, now used for emergency purposes only.
Team members trickled into camp around 8pm. My tentmate wasn’t far behind me, so I snapped this pic as he arrived. It’s the only record I have of the end. I took no other photos, forgot to grab a screenshot off my phone, and didn’t mark a “done” waypoint. That is so not like me. I guess I was tired and hungry.
With the information I do have, I can say we climbed almost 3,200 feet in 4 miles today. It took us over 15 hours, but well worth every step–count to 2, step. Tomorrow, we continue down to Plaza de Mulas.
