I just submitted an application to attend a Denali Prep Course offered by the Alaska Mountaineering School in May, just THREE MONTHS away!
When our plans for climbing Alaska’s highpoint got pushed out yet another year, I felt the need to take a bigger step in prepping for Denali. I can’t wait another year, hearing all about how hard it is, and how much you have to carry, and how the weather is such a factor, and on and on and on… I want to test myself now in order to be better prepared, physically and mentally, for what this adventure really entails.
The options under consideration were:
- 10-Day Denali Prep Course (including a Kahiltna Dome objective) with AMS for $4,900
- 8-Day Denali Prep Course on Mt. Rainier (no summit objective) with Alpine Ascents for $2,600
- 6-Day Denali Prep Course on Mt. Baker (no summit objective) with AAI for $2,195
- 4-day Denali Senimar on Mt. Rainier (no summit objective) with IMG for $1,695
- 3-day Denali Seminar somewhere in the Wasatch (including some objective) with UMA for $879
The Obvious Choice
The obvious choice for me is to go with the option that most closely resembles the real thing. Despite a cost almost double that of the next best option, I think it’s totally worth going with AMS. I want to carry the weight of a real Denali expedition, roped up for complex crevasse danger, while towing a sled along the actual route of the West Buttress.
Why wouldn’t I choose the company based right there in Talkeetna, guiding Denali since 1983! From what I see, AMS has it pretty dialed-in with custom sleds and duffels specifically designed to support this expedition. So I want to learn from who appears to be the premier provider for the Alaska Range.
It’s also worth noting that three of my Denali 2025 team members attempted this summit in 2023, guided by AMS. While they only made it to 17,000′ before bad weather turned them around, I want to learn the exact same system they were taught. I believe it’s important for everyone to be on the same page when I join them for their second attempt.
Plus the added Kahiltna Dome objective with AMS makes this option especially more interesting! So much so, that I prioritized this AMS course in Alaska over an invite to Bolivia with my hiking friends who are planning to climb Illimani (21,122′), Huayna Potosi (19,974′), Pequeno Alpamayo (17,799′), Tarija (17,618′) and Pico Austria (17,480′).
Excited but Nervous
I’m excited but also super nervous about doing this alone. The load that needs to be carried is intimidating, so I worry about being the guy who holds everyone back. I’m also not too thrilled about tenting with someone I don’t know for 10 days. I need my gut to respond well to the food that will be provided and definitely not looking forward to pooping in a can for all to see…
I have to do this though, despite waking up in the middle of the night fretting over all these “what if’s”.
